Have you ever pictured yourself meandering down 500 year old cobblestone streets, greeting every person you pass with a wave, a smile, and a “buenos días”? Me too, and thanks to VRBO (Vacation Rentals By Owner), my husband and I made that dream a reality. We’re gearing up to become backpack and rollie retirees and San Miguel de Allende was the perfect place to “dip our toes in the water” of living like locals so we dove right in with a six week stay.
Our live like a local adventure began with an American Airlines flight from Portland to Dallas. After dinner and a couple of laps around the DFW airport, we boarded again and headed to central Mexico. Most flights from Dallas either fly into Mexico City (a 3 hour drive to San Miguel) or Leon. We chose Leon as it is only 90 minutes by car or bus. We arrived around Midnight and were grateful for our pre-arranged car and driver.
San Miguel de Allende is a city that manages to be both quaint and cosmopolitan at the same time. Once an important stop on the silver route its historic center (El Centro) is filled with well-preserved buildings from the 17th and 18th centuries. With its narrow cobblestone streets, leafy courtyards, fine architectural details and sumptuous interiors, San Miguel de Allende is, in my opinion, one of the prettiest towns in Mexico.
At he heart of El Centro is the Jardín, a small park rimmed by elaborately pruned laurel trees. This square is a bustling hub of activity from dawn to dusk. Every morning, as regular as the rooftop rooster’s early call, my retired hubby took himself to the Jardín to sit on a bench, sip a coffee, read the newspaper, and engage in some very serious people watching. Thanks to my laptop and an good internet connection, I was able to work in my temporary home office. Walking is undoubtedly the best way to explore San Miguel and each afternoon, hubs and I set out together to explore the many unique barrios on foot. Our wandering led us through historic old churches, chic shops, craft galleries, tiny markets and beautifully restored old homes. I practiced my Spanish on shopkeepers, bus drivers, and any friendly person who stood still long enough.
San Miguel is home to about 17,000 expats, many of whom have retired here for a richer life on less money. It is still very much a Mexican town, however, where locals cheerily co-exist with the foreigners who visit or call this city home. Home to two art schools and several Spanish schools, this colorful town is definitely a creative hub. Studio openings, classes and workshops are a vital part of the thriving arts scene.
During our time in San Miguel, I took Zumba and yoga classes – in Spanish. We navigated the local bus system and only got lost once, agreeing to call it a sightseeing tour instead of the trip to the Mega store we had originally planned. On Tuesday mornings we wandered for hours through the martes tianguis – a huge weekly open-air market of stalls that sell everything from whole chickens to ladies’ lingerie. We also rode the local bus out to La Gruta and soaked in the underground thermal pools, signed up for a cooking classes, and marched through the cobblestone streets in a wedding parade. We celebrated Christmas with a hike to the ancient ruins in El Charcol del Ingenio, a 250 acre botanical garden. Meeting people was easy and we quickly felt right at home. One afternoon we bellied up to the bar in a local watering hole to sip a couple of cold cervezas and cheer for the Oregon Ducks on TV. Alas, it was not the victory as we had hoped.
San Miguel is the perfect city for an extended stay. Take a Spanish course or some art classes and make yourself at home. It is safe to walk around day and night but, if you’d rather take a taxi, they are plentiful and cheap. San Miguel is well-located for interesting day trips and shopping excursions. There are many delightful restaurants, an English language library and weekly newspaper to keep up with the many events, talks, parades and tours. There is truly something for everyone in this lovely village in the hills.
