Years ago my son Adam and I drove from Seattle to the famed Ape Caves near Mt. St. Helens. He slept most of the way down, but by the time we donned jackets and turned on our beacon lights, he was totally wide-awake.
We had a ball scrambling through and exploring what isn’t a cave at all – it just feels like one. The Ape Caves are really lava tubes. They are dark, chilly, wet and really cool due to the river-flow nature of the undulating tube. This is a magical “must” for any kid, probably age eight and older.
Plan to bring water, snacks and extra batteries for your lights. Headlamps are very handy, too. Wear sturdy, comfortable shoes and long pants to protect your legs from bumping into sharp lava rock. Have fun, bring a sense of humor and plenty of time so the young ones can live in the mystery and not be rushed.
Here is a description from the Washington Trails Association website:
The primates that gave their name to two lava tubes found along this trail weren’t monkeys-they were members of a 1950s outdoor club who found and explored the tubes. They called themselves the Mount St. Helens Apes, and the lava tubes became known as their caves. The tubes are long tunnels in the thick lava beds; they run roughly parallel to the surface of the land. Interpretive signs line both the trail through the forest and the tubes’ mouths. The lower tube is the easiest (but still requires a certain amount of care) and the upper tube is larger. It is not possible to hike in the caves the entire length between the two entrances. Descending into the tubes requires a jacket-it’s a constant, cool 42 degrees under the earth, regardless of what happens on the surface-and a powerful flashlight or lantern. The tube beds are rough and uneven.
Note: Powerful flashlights with well-charged batteries or a strong lantern are required for walking in the caves. Do not try to explore these spots without a good light.
A pleasant, flat 1.3-mile trail through the old forest links the two lava tubes and leads from the trailhead to these underworld entrances. This trail leads through wonderful old forests. About 1 mile out, the trail passes a small crack in the ground. This “skylight” allows hikers to peer into the caves and allows cave explorers to see a bit of sunlight. The trail ends at the upper cave entrance.
During the summer, a Northwest Forest Parking Pass is required – $5 per day, $30/season.
Driving Directions:
The Ape Caves are located on the south side of Mount St. Helens and accessed through Woodland – go up highway 503 past Cougar. Driving time from I-5 and highway 504 where all the Mount St. Helens Visitor Centers are to the Ape Cave is just over an hour. The Ape Caves are open year-round though the parking lot gets snowed in during the winter.
From Cougar, drive east on Forest Road 90 just 1 mile beyond the Swift Dam, and turn left (north) onto FR 83. Drive 2 miles on FR 83 and turn left onto FR 8303. Continue for 1 mile on FR 8303 to the trailhead on the right.
Featured In: Day Hiking: South Cascades, by Dan A. Nelson and Alan L. Bauer.
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